“Orange wines kick ass!” So says Alder Yarrow in a glowing review of La Stoppa’s Ageno on San Francisco-based wine blog Vinography. The Emilian producer’s so-called orange wine is the creation of Elena Pantaleoni, and is actually a blend of Malvasia, Trebbiano, and a rare local variety called Ortrugo. According to Yarrow, the wine achieves its orange hue thanks to a lengthier contact with the grape skins and resulting oxidization process. Yarrow’s luscious tasting notes for Ageno is one of the most entertaining descriptions of a drinking experience I’ve read in a long time:
“A gorgeous medium amber-orange color in the glass, with a distinct haze of cloudiness, this wine has a phenomenal, almost otherworldly nose of exotic flowers, saffron, and orange creamsicle. On the palate it is weighty, with a texture that is almost tannic in quality, gripping the tongue like a velvet glove. From a flavor standpoint it is nearly indescribable — brown sugar, honeysuckle, saffron, cream soda, and unbelievably, the distinct flavor of coffee and cream on a finish that can be measured in minutes.”
Vinography was born in 2004 as a personal project for founding editor Alder Yarrow, and has since grown into one of the most influential blogs for non-mainstream writing. San Francisco Magazine hailed Yarrow as “The Wine World’s Brightest Cyberstar”, yet for the Stanford University graduate, Vinography remains an evening hobby: by day Yarrow is founder and principal of the interactive design and strategy consulting firm, HYDRANT.
La Stoppa’s 2004 vintage Ageno is available now at Vino.